18/09/2023
Ronscesvalles to Zubiri
2 Antipodean T's and
where's me glasses?
24.4 Km. 457 m elevation gain 6 hours 00.05 minutes walking time.
Wakey wakey it’s 6:30am and there is not a child in the house washed.
According to Mr Garmin I managed 6hours and 48minutes of sleep; guess what it is telling me the quality was poor. Again more than I would usually sleep at home and to boot I feel great actually, rested.
There are the usual mutterings and shufflings associated with a lot of people all trying to be respectful of others that are not quite awake as themselves because of the indecent hour as they get ready for another day on the road. I believe there is also that feeling most of us have as we get ready for the day ahead and it is still dark outside; are we thinking something like shh...don’t disturb the light, it’s not up yet.
I borrow Paul’s black toothpaste for the last time. As I return I notice that he has a suitcase open on the bunk…….he looks at me and says go ahead; say what you are thinking. I believe I said something like: It’s your suitcase….nothing to do with me. Without me saying anything more he explains that 2 days ago he hurt his back. I congratulated him, not on hurting his back mind you but I think most people would have just cancelled the walk until they were feeling better / fitter. Good thinking on his part arranging to get most of his gear shipped ahead.
We say our goodbyes and hope to see each other on the road over the next couple of days….we don’t, I do however have his number and will send him a text over the Christmas.
As I collect my damp boots….wait...I check them out and because the toilet paper that was stuffed in them last night done not a hait of good...they were not damp they were still pretty much soaking wet.
I tied said boots to my bag in the commons room and decided on wearing the Tevez sandals for the first part of todays walk to Zubiri…..not a fan of socks and sandals so opted for the bare feet. As I am leaving the room I look into a bin and what does it behold but a full newspaper…..I cannot believe my luck as I lay claim to it, reseat myself and stuff my boots with the pages and wrap the insoles in a page each push them well down into the boots. I still have half the paper left I treasure it like a good cheese sandwich.
As I once again set off I realise I am missing my Glasses and Poncho. No worries, I head back to what was my bunk, no joy, time to rethink. Retracing my steps from last night I head back to La Posada; explaining what I had lost to a waitress she goes inside the bar and emerges with a very nice coat, thanks but no thanks, she goes back into the bar ( which is closed by the way, after all it is just gone 7am ) and produces another coat, right colour this time but still not a poncho. Please she says; you go look. I do and now understand why she couldn’t find it. Neatly rolled up on a shelf in it’s little case it looked more like a small folded umbrella. No sign of the glasses though, damn.
I head up to the bar Casa Sabina, again no luck. I wouldn’t mind but I had just picked them up on Friday gone. I had managed to hold onto them for two and a half whole days, well done me. In fairness I can get away without them. I mainly need them for driving at night, especially when it is raining. Other than that I am okay; they do however add that bit of sharpness to distant scenes. So I am thinking that without my glasses I best not look too far ahead……that should be easy enough as it has pretty much been my philosophy for the last…..lets just say bucket of years.
I had breakfast in the hotel it was nice, more than adequate, because I declined the ham I got an extra slice of cheese. There was ten of us seated at the same table but no conversation…...all like minded morning people then. I do remember smiling across the table at a young Chinese lady, our paths continuously crossed over the following days…….we never spoke but must have exchanged a dozen plus smiles…...the Camino is so different. I discovered on my last day on the Camino that her name was Wendy and she was travelling the world on her own. I wish the best for her. Mind yourself Wendy xxx.
As I began my walk out I stopped briefly at the exit of the monastery to check my bag to ensure that I was not missing anything else. Marie is there doing her morning stretches, maybe one day I will be as sensible, we exchange pleasantries and decide that the morning clouds will possibly possess a bit of rain that could possibly be shared with those below the clouds at some stage soon. In Ireland we would say this could be: A damp day or A soft day; it is when the rain we expect arrives but for the most part it is mildish and it passes without seriously interfering with the schedule of anyone's daily lives. As I might have mentioned earlier: If you are heading out for the day in the Irish country side and feel sunglasses are required, bring them but do yourself a favour and have them in the pocket of a raincoat.
According to Mr Garmin I managed 6hours and 48minutes of sleep; guess what it is telling me the quality was poor. Again more than I would usually sleep at home and to boot I feel great actually, rested.
There are the usual mutterings and shufflings associated with a lot of people all trying to be respectful of others that are not quite awake as themselves because of the indecent hour as they get ready for another day on the road. I believe there is also that feeling most of us have as we get ready for the day ahead and it is still dark outside; are we thinking something like shh...don’t disturb the light, it’s not up yet.
I borrow Paul’s black toothpaste for the last time. As I return I notice that he has a suitcase open on the bunk…….he looks at me and says go ahead; say what you are thinking. I believe I said something like: It’s your suitcase….nothing to do with me. Without me saying anything more he explains that 2 days ago he hurt his back. I congratulated him, not on hurting his back mind you but I think most people would have just cancelled the walk until they were feeling better / fitter. Good thinking on his part arranging to get most of his gear shipped ahead.
We say our goodbyes and hope to see each other on the road over the next couple of days….we don’t, I do however have his number and will send him a text over the Christmas.
As I collect my damp boots….wait...I check them out and because the toilet paper that was stuffed in them last night done not a hait of good...they were not damp they were still pretty much soaking wet.
I tied said boots to my bag in the commons room and decided on wearing the Tevez sandals for the first part of todays walk to Zubiri…..not a fan of socks and sandals so opted for the bare feet. As I am leaving the room I look into a bin and what does it behold but a full newspaper…..I cannot believe my luck as I lay claim to it, reseat myself and stuff my boots with the pages and wrap the insoles in a page each push them well down into the boots. I still have half the paper left I treasure it like a good cheese sandwich.
As I once again set off I realise I am missing my Glasses and Poncho. No worries, I head back to what was my bunk, no joy, time to rethink. Retracing my steps from last night I head back to La Posada; explaining what I had lost to a waitress she goes inside the bar and emerges with a very nice coat, thanks but no thanks, she goes back into the bar ( which is closed by the way, after all it is just gone 7am ) and produces another coat, right colour this time but still not a poncho. Please she says; you go look. I do and now understand why she couldn’t find it. Neatly rolled up on a shelf in it’s little case it looked more like a small folded umbrella. No sign of the glasses though, damn.
I head up to the bar Casa Sabina, again no luck. I wouldn’t mind but I had just picked them up on Friday gone. I had managed to hold onto them for two and a half whole days, well done me. In fairness I can get away without them. I mainly need them for driving at night, especially when it is raining. Other than that I am okay; they do however add that bit of sharpness to distant scenes. So I am thinking that without my glasses I best not look too far ahead……that should be easy enough as it has pretty much been my philosophy for the last…..lets just say bucket of years.
I had breakfast in the hotel it was nice, more than adequate, because I declined the ham I got an extra slice of cheese. There was ten of us seated at the same table but no conversation…...all like minded morning people then. I do remember smiling across the table at a young Chinese lady, our paths continuously crossed over the following days…….we never spoke but must have exchanged a dozen plus smiles…...the Camino is so different. I discovered on my last day on the Camino that her name was Wendy and she was travelling the world on her own. I wish the best for her. Mind yourself Wendy xxx.
As I began my walk out I stopped briefly at the exit of the monastery to check my bag to ensure that I was not missing anything else. Marie is there doing her morning stretches, maybe one day I will be as sensible, we exchange pleasantries and decide that the morning clouds will possibly possess a bit of rain that could possibly be shared with those below the clouds at some stage soon. In Ireland we would say this could be: A damp day or A soft day; it is when the rain we expect arrives but for the most part it is mildish and it passes without seriously interfering with the schedule of anyone's daily lives. As I might have mentioned earlier: If you are heading out for the day in the Irish country side and feel sunglasses are required, bring them but do yourself a favour and have them in the pocket of a raincoat.
I decide that I am not missing anything else, stay with the barefoot option and head off. There are a few people taking photos of the distance sign as soon as you leave the hamlet and once passed the sign you enter a parallel wooded walk. After I entered the trees I immediately cried, I didn’t feel it coming on, there was no warning signs, no thoughts wandering in my head that might have warned me or made it happen….it just happened. I do remember briefly asking why as I glanced behind me and ahead…..there was nobody within 100 meters of me…..and I thought what the hell as I kept walking, no thoughts to mention, just a flow of tears. So that crack carried on for perhaps 2 or 3 minutes but then I notice people stopped ahead of me. There is 2 standing and one bent down. As I get nearer I see that the one bent down gets up and carries on while the other two people remain.
As I close the distance I dry my eyes and sort myself out.
They are standing guarding over a very small bird. I kneel down and see it is a Coal Tit. The guardians; a woman and a man, neither say much until the lady suggests that perhaps the bird fell from it’s nest. As it is late September this is very unlikely, though with all the changes going on in todays world one can never rule anything out. But there is no down feathering on the bird, I think the poor thing just had an accident. I don’t want to startle it any more than the poor creature is already so I try to get it to walk onto the back of my hand, it is not moving, I ask the lady for help and get her to usher it from behind, I notice hand is bandaged. The bird moves forward but immediately topples over on my hand. I assume it have hurt one of it’s feet. While this part of the wooded path seemed quiet and peaceful there was going to be several hundred people passing along it over the next few hours….it was too dark here it was not going to be seen, truth be told I honestly don’t know how the two guardians managed to discover it in the first place....I felt there was no other option but cupped the poor bird in my hands and placed him gently on the moss covered roots of a tree just off the path.
Honestly I still feel I should have done more, something different but what the more was I’m not able for.
We head off again, though all at different paces, as I recall I never asked the Lady why her hand was bandaged; while not conversing we did meet and exchange smiles and greetings on several occasions over the next few days.
As I close the distance I dry my eyes and sort myself out.
They are standing guarding over a very small bird. I kneel down and see it is a Coal Tit. The guardians; a woman and a man, neither say much until the lady suggests that perhaps the bird fell from it’s nest. As it is late September this is very unlikely, though with all the changes going on in todays world one can never rule anything out. But there is no down feathering on the bird, I think the poor thing just had an accident. I don’t want to startle it any more than the poor creature is already so I try to get it to walk onto the back of my hand, it is not moving, I ask the lady for help and get her to usher it from behind, I notice hand is bandaged. The bird moves forward but immediately topples over on my hand. I assume it have hurt one of it’s feet. While this part of the wooded path seemed quiet and peaceful there was going to be several hundred people passing along it over the next few hours….it was too dark here it was not going to be seen, truth be told I honestly don’t know how the two guardians managed to discover it in the first place....I felt there was no other option but cupped the poor bird in my hands and placed him gently on the moss covered roots of a tree just off the path.
Honestly I still feel I should have done more, something different but what the more was I’m not able for.
We head off again, though all at different paces, as I recall I never asked the Lady why her hand was bandaged; while not conversing we did meet and exchange smiles and greetings on several occasions over the next few days.
A bit down the road as I am climbing a pretty steep wooded hill I pass a young lady ( I think she let me ), as I said it was a very sharp incline, I couldn’t help it but as I reached the top I turned round and stretched both arms to the sky say ‘Yea, I done it’, what a child am I.
I could tell by her smile that the young lady was seriously impressed, only kidding. However we start chatting as we continued on a part of the trail that had been nicely flattened over the years. Her name it turns out is Tia, from Australia and the reason I had overtaken her became clear; she was walking with her mum and had not wanted to get too far ahead. She joined us within a few minutes, her name is Trish. As you do on this trail we walked and talked for bit or so. While we immediately got on well together and I didn’t know it then but the two T’s were to become so very important to me and my journey over the next few days. I will explain more later but I honestly don’t think the two T’s will ever realise how much they helped me and it is unlikely I will be able to express it adequately in words…..if you T or Trish ever read these words let me say Thank you from the bottom of my heart. Both you guys are amazing xxx.
I could tell by her smile that the young lady was seriously impressed, only kidding. However we start chatting as we continued on a part of the trail that had been nicely flattened over the years. Her name it turns out is Tia, from Australia and the reason I had overtaken her became clear; she was walking with her mum and had not wanted to get too far ahead. She joined us within a few minutes, her name is Trish. As you do on this trail we walked and talked for bit or so. While we immediately got on well together and I didn’t know it then but the two T’s were to become so very important to me and my journey over the next few days. I will explain more later but I honestly don’t think the two T’s will ever realise how much they helped me and it is unlikely I will be able to express it adequately in words…..if you T or Trish ever read these words let me say Thank you from the bottom of my heart. Both you guys are amazing xxx.
The ladies stopped for refreshments the far side of Auritz-Burguete while I carried on. While I was truly enjoying the company I also like to walk on my own at times. I took a break at a food truck a little further down the road. I chatted a bit with the two Irish sisters that I had shared the ride with from Biarritz. Josh that I had met on the way up the Pyrenees was also here. There is box beside the food truck where it is stated that should you be looking for a partner that by leaving some of your underwear here you will find it, Magic Works, along the Camion. I held onto mine.
Not doubting the magic of the box but I was starting to develop a feeling that perhaps should you want for anything on this walk you could very well find it…..
As soon as you leave the truck you are on a trail path which can be pretty rough at times, more so the closer you get to Zubiri, this was the part of the walk I had purchased the hiking pole for. It turns out that I did not need it, there is little doubt in my mind though that should it have rained while I was on here that it would have come into use. The Tevez sandals had served me well until now, there were still doing good but I could feel a hot spot coming on. I thought about stopping and putting a plaster on it to try and prevent it developing into a blister but thought because of the rough terrain that the plaster would not have lasted too long…because of the steep descent I found it easier to move fast but continuously hop form side to side, today it worked for me. Now if I had some sense I would have included tape in my page which strapped around my foot and blister plaster would possibly have survived the stretch….ain’t hindsight a great teacher.
As soon as you leave the truck you are on a trail path which can be pretty rough at times, more so the closer you get to Zubiri, this was the part of the walk I had purchased the hiking pole for. It turns out that I did not need it, there is little doubt in my mind though that should it have rained while I was on here that it would have come into use. The Tevez sandals had served me well until now, there were still doing good but I could feel a hot spot coming on. I thought about stopping and putting a plaster on it to try and prevent it developing into a blister but thought because of the rough terrain that the plaster would not have lasted too long…because of the steep descent I found it easier to move fast but continuously hop form side to side, today it worked for me. Now if I had some sense I would have included tape in my page which strapped around my foot and blister plaster would possibly have survived the stretch….ain’t hindsight a great teacher.
buildings surrounding it, straight away it gives off that comfortable old world feel, I definitely like it. As I make my way to the Municipal Albergue you turn a corner onto the main street or should I road……..it immediately gives off a drive though feeling and though the old world is just a few seconds back behind the corner it might as well be miles away. Not too sure about the love anymore. As I walk along the street I see a few bodies queueing up inside the doorway of Albergue El Palo De Avellano. Once I had confirmed beds were still available I joined said bodies. I think I paid just under €20 for a bunk and breakfast. Dinner was extra and paid for it also….cannot remember how much but it was reasonable and the food was good.
My bunk was on the first floor so first off I check my boots; they are pretty close to dry. I change the newspaper and deposit them on a the rack in the rec room before heading upstairs to my room. I was the first of 10 or 12 to arrive and had been allocated a bottom bunk.
Suits me; while I don’t mind the top bunk but not bouncing as well as I did when I was younger the bottom is becoming more preferable and possibly safer these days.
The room, shower and toilets are well maintained and clean. As I have the place to myself I decide to grab a quick shower and wash a few bits of clothes and hang them on the balcony. No sooner is all done when my roommates start to arrive. The first is a group of 4 young Italian lads then a couple from America.
I go off in hunt of toothpaste ( seeing as there is no sign of Paul ) and if a beer happens to block my way to the shop so be it, we shall overcome, not everything in life should be circumvented.
My bunk was on the first floor so first off I check my boots; they are pretty close to dry. I change the newspaper and deposit them on a the rack in the rec room before heading upstairs to my room. I was the first of 10 or 12 to arrive and had been allocated a bottom bunk.
Suits me; while I don’t mind the top bunk but not bouncing as well as I did when I was younger the bottom is becoming more preferable and possibly safer these days.
The room, shower and toilets are well maintained and clean. As I have the place to myself I decide to grab a quick shower and wash a few bits of clothes and hang them on the balcony. No sooner is all done when my roommates start to arrive. The first is a group of 4 young Italian lads then a couple from America.
I go off in hunt of toothpaste ( seeing as there is no sign of Paul ) and if a beer happens to block my way to the shop so be it, we shall overcome, not everything in life should be circumvented.
Well this is working out okay I think as when I head around the corner I find a small convenience shop and wouldn’t you know it but a bar / café next door. I indulge in one of my favourite pastimes, reindulge ( my own word ) and then purchase the toothpaste.
Back in the Albergue I make an attempt at grabbing a few winks, it is just gone 3pm.
Barring the bunk above the room is full and there is a couple of low conversations going on, shortly after I lay down I realise sleep is not going to happen so I take out my phone and catch up on the news to find out what is happening in the world outside of the Camino. As I am scrolling one of the young Italian lads lays out a mat and proceeds to do some stretches, goes on to a couple of Pilates moves and next up a bit of Yoga. Just to let you know he is a bunk away from me and in my line of sight, not really doing it for me. Just when I decide to head out again he packs away the mat so I settled on trying again for a kip. Not going to happen, a young lady from Austria arrives in to claim the bunk above, her name is Litza or Liza. As she sorts out her gear we chat off and on for a bit. Ten minutes later and she is all done and settles in for a lie down herself.
Just then our young Italian friend heads into the bathroom only to remerge shortly after in what had to be the tightest fitting cycling shorts the world has ever seen, honestly I think he put them on when he was maybe 10 and left them on until now, he is late 20’s aboutish ( again my own word )……..he is wearing nothing else…...except a glowing smile. He takes out his exercise mat once again and starts his exercise routine over. I couldn’t help it but let out a small laugh, he didn’t notice. I but on the sandals again and headed out….it was just too much.
As I was going down the stairs I was wondering did he really think that Litza was going to get down off her bunk, whisper in his ear and ask if they could rent a private room so they could……bonk…..brains…...whatever…...well you get the idea. As I am about to walk out into the sunshine I am laughing not loudly…..but still out loud…..the lady behind reception just looks at me and smiles.
Life’s fun.
I remember checking out Zubiri on google maps before setting out on the Camino and it had a Hotel / Restaurant / Bar at the very far end of the town, which stretches for a bit less than a km. So apparently I am not done walking for the day. I make my way there.
It is a nice enough place, I sat outside and indulged in a couple of brandies and coffees, I have been fortunate enough to have a few truly relaxing moments on the walk, this was one of them, I linger for about an hour before heading back. As I get close to where I am staying who do I meet but the two T’s, they are staying in the Municipal Albergue and were in the process of getting tape and blister plasters from the chemist.
We decide to head back to another bar. I had noticed it before heading up the road but when passing it earlier I thought it a bit too busy for my liking, in my current frame of mind. I am okay with a busy place, sometimes, so long as the company is good. We sat outside under a covered area along with about 2 dozen or so fellow pilgrims / walkers. No sooner had we sat ourselves down at a table but we were joined by another 6 or 7 bodies, this is a regular happening on the Camino…….time alone, it can be found, but if you are going to sit near the well travelled path expect company.
A couple of drinks and some laughs later and we all went our separate ways; the two T’s went back to their Municipal Albergue where they were staying then heading further on up the road to where I had the couple of brandies earlier.
Dinner in my Albergue was nice, as far as I can recall I did not have a bad meal while in Spain. I do not recall leaving anything on my plate ( except for onions once ) and at no stage was I hungry.
I met a few others during dinner but the one that comes to mind was the second American Josh. We met a few more times over the following days and shared stories and pleasant times on the road. He was good company, seemed a very much down to earth chap.
After dinner I went for a short stroll, it was just gone 9 but the town was very quiet. Both places that I had frequented earlier were closed. I thought briefly of making my way back to the brandy bar but opted for the bed, it’s about 10pm.
Lights are out and most of the people were already in their bunks dozing or resting and I cannot help but notice upon entering the room that Litza is in her bunk, alone, I wonder if she is dreaming of the Italian lad with the miniature shorts…...we will never know.
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/afternoon-hike-452e91d-98
Back in the Albergue I make an attempt at grabbing a few winks, it is just gone 3pm.
Barring the bunk above the room is full and there is a couple of low conversations going on, shortly after I lay down I realise sleep is not going to happen so I take out my phone and catch up on the news to find out what is happening in the world outside of the Camino. As I am scrolling one of the young Italian lads lays out a mat and proceeds to do some stretches, goes on to a couple of Pilates moves and next up a bit of Yoga. Just to let you know he is a bunk away from me and in my line of sight, not really doing it for me. Just when I decide to head out again he packs away the mat so I settled on trying again for a kip. Not going to happen, a young lady from Austria arrives in to claim the bunk above, her name is Litza or Liza. As she sorts out her gear we chat off and on for a bit. Ten minutes later and she is all done and settles in for a lie down herself.
Just then our young Italian friend heads into the bathroom only to remerge shortly after in what had to be the tightest fitting cycling shorts the world has ever seen, honestly I think he put them on when he was maybe 10 and left them on until now, he is late 20’s aboutish ( again my own word )……..he is wearing nothing else…...except a glowing smile. He takes out his exercise mat once again and starts his exercise routine over. I couldn’t help it but let out a small laugh, he didn’t notice. I but on the sandals again and headed out….it was just too much.
As I was going down the stairs I was wondering did he really think that Litza was going to get down off her bunk, whisper in his ear and ask if they could rent a private room so they could……bonk…..brains…...whatever…...well you get the idea. As I am about to walk out into the sunshine I am laughing not loudly…..but still out loud…..the lady behind reception just looks at me and smiles.
Life’s fun.
I remember checking out Zubiri on google maps before setting out on the Camino and it had a Hotel / Restaurant / Bar at the very far end of the town, which stretches for a bit less than a km. So apparently I am not done walking for the day. I make my way there.
It is a nice enough place, I sat outside and indulged in a couple of brandies and coffees, I have been fortunate enough to have a few truly relaxing moments on the walk, this was one of them, I linger for about an hour before heading back. As I get close to where I am staying who do I meet but the two T’s, they are staying in the Municipal Albergue and were in the process of getting tape and blister plasters from the chemist.
We decide to head back to another bar. I had noticed it before heading up the road but when passing it earlier I thought it a bit too busy for my liking, in my current frame of mind. I am okay with a busy place, sometimes, so long as the company is good. We sat outside under a covered area along with about 2 dozen or so fellow pilgrims / walkers. No sooner had we sat ourselves down at a table but we were joined by another 6 or 7 bodies, this is a regular happening on the Camino…….time alone, it can be found, but if you are going to sit near the well travelled path expect company.
A couple of drinks and some laughs later and we all went our separate ways; the two T’s went back to their Municipal Albergue where they were staying then heading further on up the road to where I had the couple of brandies earlier.
Dinner in my Albergue was nice, as far as I can recall I did not have a bad meal while in Spain. I do not recall leaving anything on my plate ( except for onions once ) and at no stage was I hungry.
I met a few others during dinner but the one that comes to mind was the second American Josh. We met a few more times over the following days and shared stories and pleasant times on the road. He was good company, seemed a very much down to earth chap.
After dinner I went for a short stroll, it was just gone 9 but the town was very quiet. Both places that I had frequented earlier were closed. I thought briefly of making my way back to the brandy bar but opted for the bed, it’s about 10pm.
Lights are out and most of the people were already in their bunks dozing or resting and I cannot help but notice upon entering the room that Litza is in her bunk, alone, I wonder if she is dreaming of the Italian lad with the miniature shorts…...we will never know.
https://www.alltrails.com/explore/recording/afternoon-hike-452e91d-98