20/09/23
Pamplona to Uterga
A very kind your French lady called Valentina and the return of the Three Crazy Spanish Ladies with the Sparkling Eyes
and also where's me hat?
18.5 Km. 511m elevation gain 4hours 43minutes walking time.
Similar to last night I had just under the 5 and half hours and again Mr. Garmin tells me it is poor and again I feel well rested and raring to go as they say. Fortunately I am also very relaxed which is good. The couple that occupy the bunk below and opposite rise at the same time so I thought let them get set rather than us all trying to work in such a confined area, might end up getting dressed for a three legged race; however I didn’t allow for a healthy dash of OCD from my temporary neighbours, all packed and set to go when the lady was not happy about something so everything had to be unpacked, neatly laid out on the bunk and rechecked, apparently everything was there, the repacking didn’t take too long. The way her partner accepted this said to me this was the norm.
I did let a smile slip and thought there are most definitely benefits to travelling alone.
We were in the top floor of the Albergue and I noticed as I was leaving that someone was sleeping on the settees in the communal area. Well done T, if you had not dashed ahead they very well might have had company.
I did let a smile slip and thought there are most definitely benefits to travelling alone.
We were in the top floor of the Albergue and I noticed as I was leaving that someone was sleeping on the settees in the communal area. Well done T, if you had not dashed ahead they very well might have had company.
So as we are set to leave I notice I am missing my hat…..damn, I left it behind me in the Albergue. What a surprise. The T’s head off and we hope to meet further up the road.
I head back there and arrive just as the door is being closed…..I explain my dilemma but the caretaker is not having any of it, in fairness I am sure this happens regularly, I decide immediately not to push it and walk away, it is after all my own fault and I do look like an adult. I’ll be okay, today is overcast and if needed I am sure I can pick up a cap on the way out of the city.
As I round the corner from the Albergue I notice a young pilgrim is still sitting on a doorstep, she was there as I had passed a few minutes ago. I ask if she is alright and she explains that she is just waiting on a shop to open. I told her what happened with my hat and she says the shop would probably have one. I decide not to wait the 20 minutes or so and to go on ahead, she is okay and I wish her well, although the gruaig is a bit light on top these days today in itself is looking like it could be a bit sun shy.
The walk through the east of the city is pleasant, very changeable, as with most overgrown places the further you head into the suburbs….they become just that bit more organised, more conformed…...it reminds me of an old American country and western singer, no he wasn’t Country….more folk…..the song was Pretty Little Boxes….maybe Bob Segar or was it Bob Seager or was it someone else altogether…...someday I might have time to worry about that. Anyways just before the above I come across a coffee shop…..Cafe….and who is just leaving but the two T’s and perhaps another 10 or 12 bodies.
I head back there and arrive just as the door is being closed…..I explain my dilemma but the caretaker is not having any of it, in fairness I am sure this happens regularly, I decide immediately not to push it and walk away, it is after all my own fault and I do look like an adult. I’ll be okay, today is overcast and if needed I am sure I can pick up a cap on the way out of the city.
As I round the corner from the Albergue I notice a young pilgrim is still sitting on a doorstep, she was there as I had passed a few minutes ago. I ask if she is alright and she explains that she is just waiting on a shop to open. I told her what happened with my hat and she says the shop would probably have one. I decide not to wait the 20 minutes or so and to go on ahead, she is okay and I wish her well, although the gruaig is a bit light on top these days today in itself is looking like it could be a bit sun shy.
The walk through the east of the city is pleasant, very changeable, as with most overgrown places the further you head into the suburbs….they become just that bit more organised, more conformed…...it reminds me of an old American country and western singer, no he wasn’t Country….more folk…..the song was Pretty Little Boxes….maybe Bob Segar or was it Bob Seager or was it someone else altogether…...someday I might have time to worry about that. Anyways just before the above I come across a coffee shop…..Cafe….and who is just leaving but the two T’s and perhaps another 10 or 12 bodies.
As I walk through the little boxes I find myself alongside a young French lady by the name of Valentine, she has just finished college and is taking a break before starting her job as a Social Worker...a tough load for someone so young……..having spent about a half an hour or so in her company I feel she is going to do okay in life. She has that something. Early in the conversation I mention the tale of my abandoned hat….or did it desert me while I slept…..find a more pleasant head to sit on ( a less confused head ) ….so my French companion kindly offers me a loan of her hat for the upcoming stretch of the walk, she explains that she had a scarf for herself….I thought briefly about accepting as the sun was taking a stronger look on this part of the planet that I had earlier presumed it would do….however….being male, a bit pig-headed at times, I heroically declined, if needed I had not problem in tying a t-shirt onto the auld scalp. You imagine that with all those years walking under the unforgiving Cretan sun I would have more common sense and accepted.
Shortly after leaving the suburbs the countryside really opened up, not much shade ahead so we all took a break. As I looked to the path ahead the kindly Valentine once again offered up her hat…...I graciously or should that be humbly considering my earlier declination, accepted this time, guess I’m not that pig-headed after all.
Shortly after leaving the suburbs the countryside really opened up, not much shade ahead so we all took a break. As I looked to the path ahead the kindly Valentine once again offered up her hat…...I graciously or should that be humbly considering my earlier declination, accepted this time, guess I’m not that pig-headed after all.
Boy was I glad of it. There is little to no shade for 99% of todays walk and as we would say in Ireland when the sun continues to shine for a few hours….It was a Glorious Day.
As you do on the Camino we walked together, drifted apart, rejoined and again separated.
I lingered a bit as we approached the most open part of this days walk and spent perhaps an hour plus on my own. I had a nice conversation with a young Korean lad that was taking a rest. His name was Yo Yo and he was carrying a Balalaika that he had bought a few weeks ago in Turkey, he had his name in large letters painted onto the case. He told me he was still undecided about keeping it….he bought it cheap, not sure how the self tutoring was going, he appeared to have some doubts in that direction, he did point out that it was in fact very light…..Yea know what he had a great smile. Hope he kept it and shared some of his music with others.
The first bit of shade was offered by a small hamlet called Zariquiegui. A lot of bodies were taking time out here. As you approach the Church is on your right offering free water from an outdoor tap and amazing views.
As you do on the Camino we walked together, drifted apart, rejoined and again separated.
I lingered a bit as we approached the most open part of this days walk and spent perhaps an hour plus on my own. I had a nice conversation with a young Korean lad that was taking a rest. His name was Yo Yo and he was carrying a Balalaika that he had bought a few weeks ago in Turkey, he had his name in large letters painted onto the case. He told me he was still undecided about keeping it….he bought it cheap, not sure how the self tutoring was going, he appeared to have some doubts in that direction, he did point out that it was in fact very light…..Yea know what he had a great smile. Hope he kept it and shared some of his music with others.
The first bit of shade was offered by a small hamlet called Zariquiegui. A lot of bodies were taking time out here. As you approach the Church is on your right offering free water from an outdoor tap and amazing views.
I joined the T’s for a snack, T was looking forward to finishing a bit early today so booked a place for the three of us in Urtega which was next village up the road. I met Valentine and asked if it was okay to return her much appreciated hat there...it was.
About an hour on or so up the road I came to the wrought iron sculptors at Alto del Perdon ( hill of forgiveness ). In Camion terms they are very new, erected in 1996, but are so iconic on the Camino de Frances that I image they feature in every brochure that sells this route. There is a great explanation for the order in a book by Jean Mitchell-Lanham:
“The sculpture exhibits a small history of pilgrims and the pilgrimage…through various stages of development, from the beginning in the Middle Ages up to the present day, in the form of a procession. Of the twelve pilgrims, the first pilgrim appears to be searching for the route and symbolizes the beginning of interest in the pilgrimage. Next is a group of three that depicts the growth or rise in popularity of the Camino. These three are followed by another group depicted as merchants or tradesmen on horseback that symbolize the medieval era of merchants hawking their wares to the pilgrims. Spaced away from them is a solitary figure that characterizes the decline in pilgrimages due to political, religious, and social unrests from the mid-fourteenth to the mid-twentieth centuries. At the very end of the procession are two modern-day figures depicted to show the renewed interest and rise in popularity of the pilgrimage in the late twentieth century.”
Across the road from the sculptures I notice a circle of standing stones that I am drawn towards. Initially I thought maybe they were ancient however upon closer observation they are very recent and have names inscribed, I again thought incorrectly that it was somehow part of a Basque tragedy in the past. I had to do a bit of research when I got back to Ireland and it turns out that they represent 92 people murdered between 1936 and 37 at the beginning of the Spanish Civil War.
https://pazyconvivencia.navarra.es/es/memoria/memorial-fosas-del-perd%C3%B3n
Stalling here for a bit I was rejoined by the T’s and a few others including Valentine. I also spotted the Italian lads from Zubiri…..no sign of Litza or Lisa so I guess he is just going to have to try his stretched Lycra routine on someone else.
Leaving there it is an uneven track down towards Urtega, more like a riverbed at times, which it possible is during the winter rains. Josh ( who I had met in Zubiri ) joined me as I left….I enjoyed the company. Again on this stretch there was very little shade.
We arrived in the village the same time as Valentine and here companions. The young lady was so kind it did not feel right just to hand her hat back to her so when I seen this old door a thought came to me. I gave Josh my camera and asked one of her friends to take a photo for her….as you can see from the photo she was a bit surprised…..herself and everyone there got a laugh and a smile out of the gesture…..life it good.
About an hour on or so up the road I came to the wrought iron sculptors at Alto del Perdon ( hill of forgiveness ). In Camion terms they are very new, erected in 1996, but are so iconic on the Camino de Frances that I image they feature in every brochure that sells this route. There is a great explanation for the order in a book by Jean Mitchell-Lanham:
“The sculpture exhibits a small history of pilgrims and the pilgrimage…through various stages of development, from the beginning in the Middle Ages up to the present day, in the form of a procession. Of the twelve pilgrims, the first pilgrim appears to be searching for the route and symbolizes the beginning of interest in the pilgrimage. Next is a group of three that depicts the growth or rise in popularity of the Camino. These three are followed by another group depicted as merchants or tradesmen on horseback that symbolize the medieval era of merchants hawking their wares to the pilgrims. Spaced away from them is a solitary figure that characterizes the decline in pilgrimages due to political, religious, and social unrests from the mid-fourteenth to the mid-twentieth centuries. At the very end of the procession are two modern-day figures depicted to show the renewed interest and rise in popularity of the pilgrimage in the late twentieth century.”
Across the road from the sculptures I notice a circle of standing stones that I am drawn towards. Initially I thought maybe they were ancient however upon closer observation they are very recent and have names inscribed, I again thought incorrectly that it was somehow part of a Basque tragedy in the past. I had to do a bit of research when I got back to Ireland and it turns out that they represent 92 people murdered between 1936 and 37 at the beginning of the Spanish Civil War.
https://pazyconvivencia.navarra.es/es/memoria/memorial-fosas-del-perd%C3%B3n
Stalling here for a bit I was rejoined by the T’s and a few others including Valentine. I also spotted the Italian lads from Zubiri…..no sign of Litza or Lisa so I guess he is just going to have to try his stretched Lycra routine on someone else.
Leaving there it is an uneven track down towards Urtega, more like a riverbed at times, which it possible is during the winter rains. Josh ( who I had met in Zubiri ) joined me as I left….I enjoyed the company. Again on this stretch there was very little shade.
We arrived in the village the same time as Valentine and here companions. The young lady was so kind it did not feel right just to hand her hat back to her so when I seen this old door a thought came to me. I gave Josh my camera and asked one of her friends to take a photo for her….as you can see from the photo she was a bit surprised…..herself and everyone there got a laugh and a smile out of the gesture…..life it good.
Just then Antonia appeared. I said my goodbyes and joined him in a quest for some drink and food and some more drink…..I do treasure my refreshments. Fortunately he knew of a nice Albergue around the corner that would fit the bill.
As we waited at the counter to be served I the two ladies, working on middle age ( discriminatory I know….who knows where the middle is) that were in front of us, also ordering food and refreshments, while at the same time checking in for the night. They were Irish, that in itself is okay, I met a few Irish people in my time on this planet and by and large…...they are not the worst….I do put myself right there in the middle. Anywho….as they were ordering the tone of the questions which seemed to come quick fire from one lady about the ingredients in a certain dish and before the proprietor had a chance to one received another question from the other lady about the amount of bunks in the room. When he did answer each question the repeated the process again. No 1 asks a questions quickly followed by No 2 with a different query. This went on for about 10 plus minutes and were it not for the sight of the beer behind the counter I may well have walked on. Antonia asked me something at one stage and in order to answer him I had to usher him a few feet back from that counter as I did not wish the ladies in question to hear my accent. I do remember thinking to myself ‘oh T please do not have us booked in here’. To me at least they came across as too matter of fact, too organised and too demanding. I had to admire the patience of the gentleman behind the counter.
When we eventually did manage to get sorted for food and liquids and had ensconced ourselves outside, albeit in the shade, the T’s arrived.
While they had met each other briefly yesterday when I regaled them about his prediction as to which would greet us first: the storm or the monastery, I was glad that we all met up again as the T’s and Antonio were carrying on until Santiago de Compostela while I was going to have to head home within the ten days of so. I figured they would make good companions for each other in future days.
As we shared company I had to send Antonio a photo but for some reason I could not get the connection….so after a couple of failed attempts, seeing as how I am working on been an old fogie, I thought about letting Antonio try but seeing as how he is older and fogier than me opted to pass my phone to T…...I was so happy when the younger more experienced person with the better knowledge of modern technology….. got stumped, happy is the wrong word….let’s just say I felt less dumb than perhaps a minute before. Now whatever about my happiness T was not going to be beaten so 2 attempts later, thinking she has done it, checks by calling Antonio’s phone from mine….it works….there is a connection, the phone is ringing…strange that my Antonio's phone is loudly silent..so t does get an answer and the connection / person on the other end is confused….I think they ask something like; who is this Antonio you look for? They ask is it my second cousin who is the vet in the second village over and is married to that hussy from Milan? ( I made that bit up ) Though possibly this was done in Italian as she had managed to call someone's Italian mobile number. So T apologised and hung up, a few minutes later she did manage to connect our phones without dialling any more strangers in the Mediterranean basin.
As we waited at the counter to be served I the two ladies, working on middle age ( discriminatory I know….who knows where the middle is) that were in front of us, also ordering food and refreshments, while at the same time checking in for the night. They were Irish, that in itself is okay, I met a few Irish people in my time on this planet and by and large…...they are not the worst….I do put myself right there in the middle. Anywho….as they were ordering the tone of the questions which seemed to come quick fire from one lady about the ingredients in a certain dish and before the proprietor had a chance to one received another question from the other lady about the amount of bunks in the room. When he did answer each question the repeated the process again. No 1 asks a questions quickly followed by No 2 with a different query. This went on for about 10 plus minutes and were it not for the sight of the beer behind the counter I may well have walked on. Antonia asked me something at one stage and in order to answer him I had to usher him a few feet back from that counter as I did not wish the ladies in question to hear my accent. I do remember thinking to myself ‘oh T please do not have us booked in here’. To me at least they came across as too matter of fact, too organised and too demanding. I had to admire the patience of the gentleman behind the counter.
When we eventually did manage to get sorted for food and liquids and had ensconced ourselves outside, albeit in the shade, the T’s arrived.
While they had met each other briefly yesterday when I regaled them about his prediction as to which would greet us first: the storm or the monastery, I was glad that we all met up again as the T’s and Antonio were carrying on until Santiago de Compostela while I was going to have to head home within the ten days of so. I figured they would make good companions for each other in future days.
As we shared company I had to send Antonio a photo but for some reason I could not get the connection….so after a couple of failed attempts, seeing as how I am working on been an old fogie, I thought about letting Antonio try but seeing as how he is older and fogier than me opted to pass my phone to T…...I was so happy when the younger more experienced person with the better knowledge of modern technology….. got stumped, happy is the wrong word….let’s just say I felt less dumb than perhaps a minute before. Now whatever about my happiness T was not going to be beaten so 2 attempts later, thinking she has done it, checks by calling Antonio’s phone from mine….it works….there is a connection, the phone is ringing…strange that my Antonio's phone is loudly silent..so t does get an answer and the connection / person on the other end is confused….I think they ask something like; who is this Antonio you look for? They ask is it my second cousin who is the vet in the second village over and is married to that hussy from Milan? ( I made that bit up ) Though possibly this was done in Italian as she had managed to call someone's Italian mobile number. So T apologised and hung up, a few minutes later she did manage to connect our phones without dialling any more strangers in the Mediterranean basin.
Antonio was staying in the next village so headed off and just as he was leaving the restaurant he gets accosted by three ladies…typical charmer, leaves two ladies and finds three, while noticing this out of the corner of my eye I am in conversation to the two T’s and it is only as Antonio is saying his farewells to them that I twig that it is the three ladies in question are The Three Crazy Spanish Ladies I had met on the first night Orisson he had been chatting to….wow....this walk really is a merry go round.
We chatted and joked for a bit, I said I was delighted that they knew Antonio as I thought he was a nice guy whereupon one of them suggested that maybe I liked liked him and she was the one with the least English…..no I assured her that was not the case…..if ever we had to share accommodation he would be more than safe, as well as any other male residents.
The ladies didn’t linger for too long as they were also heading onto the next village, we said our adieus and hoped to meet up again in Estella the following night.
Well this was turning out to be another good day. I had thought about the ladies and had hoped to meet them and now T told me we were not staying in this Albergue but the one directly opposite in Albergue Casa Baztán. It was very pleasant and clean with large garden out the back for either relaxing or hanging out your washing.
After dinner, which was good, I made my way to the village church. T joined me, unfortunately it was locked….when one door is closed another opens…..Trish joined us and upon turning a corner found that open door. A small bar was in the process of closing but the owner let us in for one drink. He told us how there was no work for young people here so they had to go to Pamplona or elsewhere, chances are most would want to head away regardless of the working situation. He himself worked in Pamplona but spent the evenings and weekends in Uterga. We chatted in general for a bit, I think maybe T and myself had a second drink before thanking our host and quick stepping it to the Albergue. Turns out we did not quick step it enough, the door was locked, in fairness now we did arrive a minute and I do mean a minute after the hour. Fortunately for us a couple of Koreans were chatting in the lobby and opened the door for us...phew...another night were it not for the T’s I would possibly have spent on the bench outside. I’d probably have chatted to the owner of the bar for another few minutes and perhaps another drink and then enjoyed the stars for a bit.
The owner of the Albergue came out of his room and while not saying any words did make a couple of noises representative of his disapproval before going back into his room. The T’s made their way to the bunks while I joined the two kindly Korean ladies.
Two minutes into our muted conversation the owners head appeared over the balcony and uttered a loud SHHH. Okay we took the hint and pulled our chairs together, very quietly I might add, and spoke in whispers. Less than another two minutes passed when the upstairs door opened again and not a word was spoken but the place was plunged into darkness as he switched off all the lights. This guy should join the Marvel Universe as he most definitely has super hearing. On one hand I have to say that if anybody was watching us I am sure they would have thought they were taking part in a silent movie. Not to worry….we mouthed out goodnights to each other and went to our bunks.
In fairness the owner has a point, a lot of his guests would be getting up very early …… say 6am, while I’m quite content to get up at any time so long as it is a bit after that, a long bit after that preferably as this was kinda like or even really is my annual holiday.
We chatted and joked for a bit, I said I was delighted that they knew Antonio as I thought he was a nice guy whereupon one of them suggested that maybe I liked liked him and she was the one with the least English…..no I assured her that was not the case…..if ever we had to share accommodation he would be more than safe, as well as any other male residents.
The ladies didn’t linger for too long as they were also heading onto the next village, we said our adieus and hoped to meet up again in Estella the following night.
Well this was turning out to be another good day. I had thought about the ladies and had hoped to meet them and now T told me we were not staying in this Albergue but the one directly opposite in Albergue Casa Baztán. It was very pleasant and clean with large garden out the back for either relaxing or hanging out your washing.
After dinner, which was good, I made my way to the village church. T joined me, unfortunately it was locked….when one door is closed another opens…..Trish joined us and upon turning a corner found that open door. A small bar was in the process of closing but the owner let us in for one drink. He told us how there was no work for young people here so they had to go to Pamplona or elsewhere, chances are most would want to head away regardless of the working situation. He himself worked in Pamplona but spent the evenings and weekends in Uterga. We chatted in general for a bit, I think maybe T and myself had a second drink before thanking our host and quick stepping it to the Albergue. Turns out we did not quick step it enough, the door was locked, in fairness now we did arrive a minute and I do mean a minute after the hour. Fortunately for us a couple of Koreans were chatting in the lobby and opened the door for us...phew...another night were it not for the T’s I would possibly have spent on the bench outside. I’d probably have chatted to the owner of the bar for another few minutes and perhaps another drink and then enjoyed the stars for a bit.
The owner of the Albergue came out of his room and while not saying any words did make a couple of noises representative of his disapproval before going back into his room. The T’s made their way to the bunks while I joined the two kindly Korean ladies.
Two minutes into our muted conversation the owners head appeared over the balcony and uttered a loud SHHH. Okay we took the hint and pulled our chairs together, very quietly I might add, and spoke in whispers. Less than another two minutes passed when the upstairs door opened again and not a word was spoken but the place was plunged into darkness as he switched off all the lights. This guy should join the Marvel Universe as he most definitely has super hearing. On one hand I have to say that if anybody was watching us I am sure they would have thought they were taking part in a silent movie. Not to worry….we mouthed out goodnights to each other and went to our bunks.
In fairness the owner has a point, a lot of his guests would be getting up very early …… say 6am, while I’m quite content to get up at any time so long as it is a bit after that, a long bit after that preferably as this was kinda like or even really is my annual holiday.