19/09/23
Zubiri to Pamplona
A impromptu tour guide called Jasper
and where's me shampoo and body wash/
25.4 Km. 527m elevation gain 6hours 47minutes walking time.
Good morning sunshine or should I say dawn.
I feel I had a good nights sleep, I managed just shy of 5 and half hours by Mr. Garmin’s reckoning. Truth is it felt like more. I’m well rested or even reset for the day to come. I tend to have my bag pretty much packed before I go out to dinner each night. By doing this I find that once I have visited the loo, brushed the enamels, splashed the face I’m set for go. I grab the couple of bits and pieces that are loose, check on and under the bed, then head down to the rec room as I descend the stairs I found myself saying out loud ‘ please boots be dry ‘.
Once I have collected said boots I thank them for been dry and the newspaper for doing it’s job.
Although I am the first out of the room I am not the first down from breakfast. Cannot remember what it was but it set me up for the day or at least the first half of it.
As I exit from the Alberque who do I bump into in the near darkness but the two T’s. That’s a good omen for the day. We were to spend most of the day together while also passing time with others on the walk.
I chatted for a bit with a very nice young Chinese lady called O, she had very good English, this was good because what I knew of any of the Chinese languages you could write on the head of a pin. O is an art teacher and was undertaking the walk on her own. Hell of a distance to travel for a walk…..I have to admire her. Shortly after we parted ways Josh that I had met at dinner last night joined us for a spell.
As I exit from the Alberque who do I bump into in the near darkness but the two T’s. That’s a good omen for the day. We were to spend most of the day together while also passing time with others on the walk.
I chatted for a bit with a very nice young Chinese lady called O, she had very good English, this was good because what I knew of any of the Chinese languages you could write on the head of a pin. O is an art teacher and was undertaking the walk on her own. Hell of a distance to travel for a walk…..I have to admire her. Shortly after we parted ways Josh that I had met at dinner last night joined us for a spell.
It’s around now, 20 minutes or so into the day that the two T’s tell me that they are looking forward to stopping in the first village or hamlet for a coffee and bit of breakfast. It turns out they like to head out first and then indulge in a coffee…..definitely not my idea of an ideal start….I like the caffeine in me before opening the first door.
Now usually on the Camino this would not be a problem but it turns out today it was. The first couple of places we come to are tiny and have nothing open. As we are leaving the second of these peaceful places and are descending a hill, there is a loose group of about a dozen walkers, I hear this familiar voice call out “A Patrisia” ( close enough ) I look behind me and what greets me but a big smiling Italian. Antonio, I walked back and in the midst of everyone we hugged each other as long lost friends do. As soon as we continue walking I cannot help but sharing my abiding memory of this gentleman.
I say loud enough so every one can hear:
“Antonio, that is Roncesvalles, how far? One hour he say.
Antonio, that storm how far away is it? One hour he says.
One minute later we are all soaked by the storm.”
I think all those within hearing distance got a laugh out of it.
We enjoyed each others company for a bit before we again drifted apart.
Now usually on the Camino this would not be a problem but it turns out today it was. The first couple of places we come to are tiny and have nothing open. As we are leaving the second of these peaceful places and are descending a hill, there is a loose group of about a dozen walkers, I hear this familiar voice call out “A Patrisia” ( close enough ) I look behind me and what greets me but a big smiling Italian. Antonio, I walked back and in the midst of everyone we hugged each other as long lost friends do. As soon as we continue walking I cannot help but sharing my abiding memory of this gentleman.
I say loud enough so every one can hear:
“Antonio, that is Roncesvalles, how far? One hour he say.
Antonio, that storm how far away is it? One hour he says.
One minute later we are all soaked by the storm.”
I think all those within hearing distance got a laugh out of it.
We enjoyed each others company for a bit before we again drifted apart.
The first coffee we come to is a small van offering a few refreshments about 7km in; as we get there the T’s decide a toilet is probably more important and decide not to add to the developing issue by topping up. There is a small village about 2km further on…..so on we go.
It turns out that it again was a no go. Never mind, there is always the trees.
Time passes, one foot in front of the other.
Along the way, a little over half way, we came across a nice sized hill, in the normal stride of things not a problem, though I was thinking of the two T’s and it possibly seemed a bit steeper considering they had not had a coffee or even a slice of toast yet ( with or without the crusts ).
Fortunately just beneath said hill is a welcoming small park that offers fresh water, shade and tables before what turns out to be the final small climb of the day. I rummage through my bag and come across a cheese baguette; I think I bought it yesterday sometime, or maybe it was there since Orisson, the day before? Not to worry; hunger is good sauce. We split it in 3 and by the time we finished there was not a crumb left for the crows.
All of a sudden that hill seemed to shrink a little. The walk from here is relaxing and throws up some nice views and pleasant sights as you round each corner: what looks like an old stable belonging to some old country house or estate with one wall covered in some clinging plant that had very small flowers that I am unfamiliar with, by that I don’t mean while we were in close proximity to them we were not introduced, I just had not seen them before, in either Ireland or Greece. Next corner throws up a pleasant field organised by man but made more beautiful by natures involvement by providing it with wild flowers and framed with a wood on one side a blue sky above and a mystery around the next bend in the road. It was good to be there.
It turns out that it again was a no go. Never mind, there is always the trees.
Time passes, one foot in front of the other.
Along the way, a little over half way, we came across a nice sized hill, in the normal stride of things not a problem, though I was thinking of the two T’s and it possibly seemed a bit steeper considering they had not had a coffee or even a slice of toast yet ( with or without the crusts ).
Fortunately just beneath said hill is a welcoming small park that offers fresh water, shade and tables before what turns out to be the final small climb of the day. I rummage through my bag and come across a cheese baguette; I think I bought it yesterday sometime, or maybe it was there since Orisson, the day before? Not to worry; hunger is good sauce. We split it in 3 and by the time we finished there was not a crumb left for the crows.
All of a sudden that hill seemed to shrink a little. The walk from here is relaxing and throws up some nice views and pleasant sights as you round each corner: what looks like an old stable belonging to some old country house or estate with one wall covered in some clinging plant that had very small flowers that I am unfamiliar with, by that I don’t mean while we were in close proximity to them we were not introduced, I just had not seen them before, in either Ireland or Greece. Next corner throws up a pleasant field organised by man but made more beautiful by natures involvement by providing it with wild flowers and framed with a wood on one side a blue sky above and a mystery around the next bend in the road. It was good to be there.
Not long after we entered the suburbs of Pamplona, normally I would have done a bit of research but I let myself down here and wow I was a bit taken aback by the size of the city: as we entered I checked my phone and discovered we had still a hike of about 7 kilometres to the Municipal Albergue ( Albergue Jesus y Maria ) and it was only half way into the city. On the plus side we very shortly found a café, small and very busy it may have been but it was there and that was the most important thing, it did help that they had large area laid out across the road from it with a dozen plus tables. This is where we met Jasper for the first time, a lovely chap from the Netherlands, who happened to be sitting at the next table. T and myself had just nodded a hello in his direction, we were neighbours after all, when he proceeded to read aloud facts and stats about Pamplona from his guide book. It was just another surreal like moment on this incredible walk. We all chatted for a while, had another drink and made another friend before moving on again.
There was an incident that occurred as we crossed the city, but not one for sharing. So why mention it here?....well with old age about to set in I’ll possibly forget about it shortly. If I reread this a few years down the line the old cogs in the brain may recall it thanks to this reminder. It was funny….kinda...but still not sharing.
T went on ahead to try and secure a bunk for herself and her mum...she very kindly got me one….adoption to the Australian T family confirmed. ( now I just have to cosy up to Trish to find out where she buried her treasure ).
There was an incident that occurred as we crossed the city, but not one for sharing. So why mention it here?....well with old age about to set in I’ll possibly forget about it shortly. If I reread this a few years down the line the old cogs in the brain may recall it thanks to this reminder. It was funny….kinda...but still not sharing.
T went on ahead to try and secure a bunk for herself and her mum...she very kindly got me one….adoption to the Australian T family confirmed. ( now I just have to cosy up to Trish to find out where she buried her treasure ).
Apparently the public operated or Municipal Albergue’s are not meant to accept a booking unless you have all Camino Passports present and T did not have ours, however she worked her charm on reception explaining that she was worried because her Mum was so tired possibly even fibbed a bit in the end they bent the rules after a bit of natter…...I never asked what excuse she used for me….somehow I cannot see the description of the bit left of centre Uncle who always has peanuts working here.
I would have no problem in recommending this Albergue, I have not looked into it’s history but if it was anything but a converted Cathedral or major Church I would be surprised.
Centre of the city, always a plus, I had a quick shower and disappeared out for a drink and after those drinks disappeared, would you believe it, a portion of cardboard chips, not sure which it was but a McDonalds or Wendys or similar….had not been in one of them in years.
Met up with the T’s and then another walker, who’s name I am not going to share with you, it’s a secret…...actually it is more a case of not remembering it, I do recall that he had worked in Spain for a bit, I’m going to call him Sam and an Irish lady ( another secret name ) I had met on the second night called…???...I think it was Una or something else Irish. I do remember she was not impressed that I was wearing socks with sandals….truth be told I am in total agreement with her but...there is always exceptions. In my case I was wearing the socks to help keep on the blister plasters in place. To hell with the begrudgers.
Una stayed with us for about an hour or so but had to then head off early, I think she had gone off track somehow and ended up staying a few kilometres further from where we were and which she had also hoped to stay.
I would have no problem in recommending this Albergue, I have not looked into it’s history but if it was anything but a converted Cathedral or major Church I would be surprised.
Centre of the city, always a plus, I had a quick shower and disappeared out for a drink and after those drinks disappeared, would you believe it, a portion of cardboard chips, not sure which it was but a McDonalds or Wendys or similar….had not been in one of them in years.
Met up with the T’s and then another walker, who’s name I am not going to share with you, it’s a secret…...actually it is more a case of not remembering it, I do recall that he had worked in Spain for a bit, I’m going to call him Sam and an Irish lady ( another secret name ) I had met on the second night called…???...I think it was Una or something else Irish. I do remember she was not impressed that I was wearing socks with sandals….truth be told I am in total agreement with her but...there is always exceptions. In my case I was wearing the socks to help keep on the blister plasters in place. To hell with the begrudgers.
Una stayed with us for about an hour or so but had to then head off early, I think she had gone off track somehow and ended up staying a few kilometres further from where we were and which she had also hoped to stay.
We, I say we but truth be told the T’s, had arranged to meet up with some additional fellow travellers after we had a bite to eat. We met up with them in a café on the city square which made for a very pleasant evening as it was also hosting a free open air concert. A large amount of the locals got involved and performed several set style dances, I was told on asking that what we were watching was traditional Basque. Loved it.
We, I say we but truth be told the T’s, had arranged to meet up with some additional fellow travellers after we had a bite to eat. We met up with them in a café on the city square which made for a very pleasant evening as it was also hosting a free open air concert. A large amount of the locals got involved and performed several set style dances, I was told on asking that what we were watching was traditional Basque. Loved it. It also help that the square contained an off licence where I could purchase a bottle of Spanish Brandy...…if my hip flask of 40 years could talk I am sure it was going to ask me why did I bring it along if I was not going to use it…..but I managed to get it filled before it could question me.
Close to ten the party split up. T, Sam and myself found a small bar about 5 minutes from the Albergue where we had a drink or two followed by a couple of shots of something each. It turns out Sam had a bit of a graw for T, alas ( at least for Don ) it was not meant to be….the love of her life was in the process of divesting himself of some of his New Zealand possessions so he could wing it to Spain, good idea, a boat from the antipodes would take a mite longer.
So I mentioned previously that the T’s would help me while here on this walk and well this was one of these occasions. Trish had headed off to her bunk earlier and it left me feeling somewhat responsible for not keeping T out past closing time which was 11pm, well I was the older and possibly had a bit more experience being a (chough) ( definitely deserves another chough or two ) adult. We had to run from the bar, I do mean run, a jog or a hop skip and jump would not have done it. We just got inside the door and ten seconds later the lady attending had it closed. She actually stopped us from entering further in until we had caught our breath and stopped sounding like truly excited heavy breathing telephone callers. Wow. It was fun.
I have little doubt in my mind, because of where my head was at, that without the ladies company I would have spent the night on a street bench. Thanks T’s.
Close to ten the party split up. T, Sam and myself found a small bar about 5 minutes from the Albergue where we had a drink or two followed by a couple of shots of something each. It turns out Sam had a bit of a graw for T, alas ( at least for Don ) it was not meant to be….the love of her life was in the process of divesting himself of some of his New Zealand possessions so he could wing it to Spain, good idea, a boat from the antipodes would take a mite longer.
So I mentioned previously that the T’s would help me while here on this walk and well this was one of these occasions. Trish had headed off to her bunk earlier and it left me feeling somewhat responsible for not keeping T out past closing time which was 11pm, well I was the older and possibly had a bit more experience being a (chough) ( definitely deserves another chough or two ) adult. We had to run from the bar, I do mean run, a jog or a hop skip and jump would not have done it. We just got inside the door and ten seconds later the lady attending had it closed. She actually stopped us from entering further in until we had caught our breath and stopped sounding like truly excited heavy breathing telephone callers. Wow. It was fun.
I have little doubt in my mind, because of where my head was at, that without the ladies company I would have spent the night on a street bench. Thanks T’s.