21/09/23
Uterga to Ayegui
So where exactly is the albergue in Estella and where is Estella
and where's me........wait, apart from my way I have not lost anything today. A strange day indeed!
32.0 Km. 773m elevation gain 7hours 15minutes walking time.
So it is 7am and Mr Garmin informs me I had just under 6 hours sleeping time. That is good. I could tell you about breakfast but it would be fib….I am going to say it was good / more than adequate. I may have mentioned this previously but I do not recall getting a meal in Spain that I did not A) appreciate B) finish.
The three of us set off together. Very nice morning but rain was promised…..and I wasn’t even homesick. The first village we came to was Obanos ( it was here or Puerta La Reina which was next up that the Three Crazy Spanish Ladies were staying as was Antonio ). The town was very quiet, very tidy / clean I thought, and here as you are approaching the far side of the town you come across a large metal structure that you can walk through. We took a couple of photos here and also took one of a solo German gentleman, I think I seen him on the walk from Orisson to Roncesvalles. A hop, skip and a jump down the road we came across Puerta La Reina somewhere around here I wandered off on my own for a bit until around abouts 4km further on I stopped enjoyed the company of a cool beer and a wee warm brandy in a village called Maneru.
The three of us set off together. Very nice morning but rain was promised…..and I wasn’t even homesick. The first village we came to was Obanos ( it was here or Puerta La Reina which was next up that the Three Crazy Spanish Ladies were staying as was Antonio ). The town was very quiet, very tidy / clean I thought, and here as you are approaching the far side of the town you come across a large metal structure that you can walk through. We took a couple of photos here and also took one of a solo German gentleman, I think I seen him on the walk from Orisson to Roncesvalles. A hop, skip and a jump down the road we came across Puerta La Reina somewhere around here I wandered off on my own for a bit until around abouts 4km further on I stopped enjoyed the company of a cool beer and a wee warm brandy in a village called Maneru.
Moving on the next town, Cirauqui, I was once again joined by the T’s as we all stopped at a small outdoor café, I looked up later on the map and it is called Cafeteria Ziruaki. Here we once again met up with Jasper as well as a few others I might also add that it was here also that the first drops of rain decided to gently grace us with their presence. It was that light that should I have been at home in the west of Ireland I would say it was trying to rain.
After a small beer and a roll I left ahead of the rest of the posse, the day had an odd feel to it and I do prefer to spend these funny / odd days to myself.
Not long into my solo jaunt I came across the Three Crazy Spanish Ladies and one Strange Italian gentleman.
After a small beer and a roll I left ahead of the rest of the posse, the day had an odd feel to it and I do prefer to spend these funny / odd days to myself.
Not long into my solo jaunt I came across the Three Crazy Spanish Ladies and one Strange Italian gentleman.
The ladies had mentioned yesterday that it was Pilar’s Birthday today…..I thought they were kidding me….but no...twas true. And so followed a gentle birthday kiss followed by a round of Happy Birthday to You sung on the road, the road in question was possibly close somewhere in the middle of nowhere. I do recall thinking to myself as I left them that I really should stay in their company for a bit longer. It really was so relaxing and enjoyable to be around them…..however I also needed time to myself….so I wandered then…..and today ( months later as I write this ) I wonder now, but such is life is it not?
So I wandered on and as I did so the rain apparently gave up on it’s attempt at dropping drops and settled for a nice steady fall of misty droplets, which it managed do with varied success throughout most of the day.
There is an outdoor café set in a small orchard, unfortunately it was closed, Jasper was here with his feet up. I am now wondering who joined us back in the last Café, maybe it was Josh???? Not to worry not worth stressing out my aging grey matter.
Not sure where I paused next but it must have been somewhere because about 3km down the road I find I am walking with Jasper. We chatted for on and off for about an hour or so and then split off for a bit on our own, as you do on The Camino. It is truly amazing how
It is truly amazing how this becomes the norm here. Well it seemed natural for me anyway and I’m sure it was similar for so many others, I imagine particularly for solo
travellers.
I was joined for a couple of kilometres by a lady from Canada. She was walking for her husband. It had been his dream to do so, not hers she informed me, but due to a medical condition it was not to be for him. Although never part of her plans she did admit that it got to her, as it does to a lot of us, and she was enjoying it much more that she ever imagined. Apparently her husband and son were doing a bit of motorised travelling around Europe and were going to meet her in Santiago.
At the next hamlet she stopped for a bite, I had intended to press pause here but there was just 2 cafés here both smallish with limited space, still was searching for some quiet time. The road looked empty and wet ahead, suited me, so we said our bon Camino’s as I moved on into the quiet rain.
So I wandered on and as I did so the rain apparently gave up on it’s attempt at dropping drops and settled for a nice steady fall of misty droplets, which it managed do with varied success throughout most of the day.
There is an outdoor café set in a small orchard, unfortunately it was closed, Jasper was here with his feet up. I am now wondering who joined us back in the last Café, maybe it was Josh???? Not to worry not worth stressing out my aging grey matter.
Not sure where I paused next but it must have been somewhere because about 3km down the road I find I am walking with Jasper. We chatted for on and off for about an hour or so and then split off for a bit on our own, as you do on The Camino. It is truly amazing how
It is truly amazing how this becomes the norm here. Well it seemed natural for me anyway and I’m sure it was similar for so many others, I imagine particularly for solo
travellers.
I was joined for a couple of kilometres by a lady from Canada. She was walking for her husband. It had been his dream to do so, not hers she informed me, but due to a medical condition it was not to be for him. Although never part of her plans she did admit that it got to her, as it does to a lot of us, and she was enjoying it much more that she ever imagined. Apparently her husband and son were doing a bit of motorised travelling around Europe and were going to meet her in Santiago.
At the next hamlet she stopped for a bite, I had intended to press pause here but there was just 2 cafés here both smallish with limited space, still was searching for some quiet time. The road looked empty and wet ahead, suited me, so we said our bon Camino’s as I moved on into the quiet rain.
At this stage, you would not know it from the photographs, but the rain was now a constant heavy drizzle. I noticed that my phone was not happy about this and had taken a couple of naps. I took shelter for a while in an extended tunnel, had drink from my hip flask, something to eat which of course was followed by another drink.
Didn’t stall too long as I was about 7km from Estella and neither the sky nor the rain were looking like they were going to get lighter up anytime soon.
About 2km on I came across the town of Villatuerta. Thought of stopping here for a bit but the only Café I found open was in the process of closing, I asked of the lady Cerrada? The reply was Sí with a smile. I was chuffed that I remember Cerrada and that I had the pronunciation down as the lady understood me. So on to Estella.
The constant rain had muddied the trail after here made me feel somewhat at home, not necessarily comfortable though.
As I entered Estella I recognised the street where the Municipal Albergue was straight away. Great I thought, the rain was coming down pretty hard so I found a not so generous doorway and checked my phone for its exact location…..damn….I was wrong it was another 1.5 km on. Head down I trudged on. I thought I was right, looking back I should have checked either my map or guide book which were safe and dry in my rucksack, but no, instead I trusted in a phone that when wet proved it did not cooperate with the Alltrails app. Still, what is another few steps. 15 wet minutes later and I check the app again….still saying 1.5km….strange. Long story short I decided to go around in circles for about a half an hour, gave up on my phone when it told me I was one thousand five hundred and something from my destination and I would be there in approximately 14 days. I asked someone…..they turned around and pointed to a building I had already passed twice. Ah hell….ye gotta laugh.
Didn’t stall too long as I was about 7km from Estella and neither the sky nor the rain were looking like they were going to get lighter up anytime soon.
About 2km on I came across the town of Villatuerta. Thought of stopping here for a bit but the only Café I found open was in the process of closing, I asked of the lady Cerrada? The reply was Sí with a smile. I was chuffed that I remember Cerrada and that I had the pronunciation down as the lady understood me. So on to Estella.
The constant rain had muddied the trail after here made me feel somewhat at home, not necessarily comfortable though.
As I entered Estella I recognised the street where the Municipal Albergue was straight away. Great I thought, the rain was coming down pretty hard so I found a not so generous doorway and checked my phone for its exact location…..damn….I was wrong it was another 1.5 km on. Head down I trudged on. I thought I was right, looking back I should have checked either my map or guide book which were safe and dry in my rucksack, but no, instead I trusted in a phone that when wet proved it did not cooperate with the Alltrails app. Still, what is another few steps. 15 wet minutes later and I check the app again….still saying 1.5km….strange. Long story short I decided to go around in circles for about a half an hour, gave up on my phone when it told me I was one thousand five hundred and something from my destination and I would be there in approximately 14 days. I asked someone…..they turned around and pointed to a building I had already passed twice. Ah hell….ye gotta laugh.
While it was not the Albergue I had intended staying at….it had hot showers…..I needed one of those…..it was dry…….and I was anything but dry…..it was here….I was here. A match made on the Camino.
I kid you not but as I walked down the steps to the main door the rain stopped. Definitely gotta laugh. I did manage a smile.
There was a kindly looking gentleman behind the desk ( turns out he also does the cooking, looks after the bar and restaurant, possibly done anything that needed doing here ). I explained that there was three of us but the two ladies were between an hour or two behind me. He explained that he had plenty of bunks but could not check in the ladies without their Camino passports. I phoned T and it was going to be close to the two hour mark. After I was finished on the phone the gentleman asked if I wanted check in, I thought about it and decided to go ahead as he suggested there was a good chance there would still be bunks available when they arrived. It was pretty inexpensive and I if they were full by the time the T’s arrived, we could then go off and find a place that could accommodate all three of us. As I was paying him he asked if I wanted to pay just for one or all three? Excuse me? It’s okay he says, say nothing, or something to that effect. The kind look I had seen in him earlier was more than skin deep. I was still pretty wet but boy did I feel better. T had organised the bunks for the previous two nights and I am sure she would have sorted out tonight as well without batting an eye but I just wanted to return the favour.
So once I had showered and enjoyed the fell of dry clothes again I set off in search of my two antipodean companions. Where did I meet them but pretty close to the Albergue that we were meant to stay in….which it turns out is…..1.5km from where we were going to stay. I am not going to say that my faith was in any way restored in my phone however it did get that distance right.
When we arrived into reception the, Francesco ( I am pretty sure that is his name ) asked me if I would show the ladies the bunks and where the facilities were as he had to start cooking. He quickly stamped their passports and then disappeared into the kitchen.
While the T’s were sorting out laundry ( thanks T ), showering and what not have you I made my way to the Bar / Restaurant. It’s basic but has everything it should have drink, food and more drink. It also provided live entertainment as it had a indoor community court that you could view through a Perspex shield. There was a couple of games played by kids of maybe around 10 or 11, they seemed to be really enjoying themselves, and why not it looked like totally disorganised chaos…...what kid does not love some of that.
Fortunately from the Bar counter you could see into the kitchen….Francesco had a helper there, after he had got me a local beer and he returned to cooking I noticed that his assistant did not seem to move unless directed.
On my second beer the ladies joined me so we grabbed a table, front row seats to a final where one team with so many different coloured shirts took on another team with an equal amount of different coloured shirts. I wonder how many of them knew who was actually on their team. But as I said it did not seem to matter. The food was good, nothing special but it all disappeared and none of us were hungry after it. Enough said. Just as we were finished I got a call that I was kinda expecting but dreading…..I went outside and it turns out Jennie had got a date for going into Galway hospital for treatment. We spoke for a bit and it was not for another 10 days so I said I would be back in 5. As I hung up the phone and made my way back in I decided two things: I was going to finish up tomorrow and make my way back in two days and was not going to tell the T’s until sometime tomorrow.
And there was me thinking I had just had half miserable day in the rain……..what sort of a day did Jennie have.
After dinner Trish went off to bed while T and myself retreated to a bar around the corner that I had passed while making my circles. We did this with some help from a couple of local ladies.
This was most definitely a night I would have missed curfew…..however thanks to the T we arrived back on time….actually ahead of time. We chatted for a bit outside while I checked that the contents of my hip flask had not gone off or evaporated, I think it was sometime when we were having a drink that T informed that the reason I had got confused about the location of the Albergue…...we were in the next village…..I had meant to stop in Estella but I had wandered onto Ayugi...I’d like to say I was surprised by this but it was not the first time I had wandered a bit too far along a path.
At 11 we entered the Albergue but Francesco said it’s okay if you want to chat another bit, what a gent, we did….another ten minutes and a couple of sips before the leaba was calling us.
Obviously it was not a good night but taking into account the good company I had and the kindness of Franceso it was not the bad night it could have been.
I kid you not but as I walked down the steps to the main door the rain stopped. Definitely gotta laugh. I did manage a smile.
There was a kindly looking gentleman behind the desk ( turns out he also does the cooking, looks after the bar and restaurant, possibly done anything that needed doing here ). I explained that there was three of us but the two ladies were between an hour or two behind me. He explained that he had plenty of bunks but could not check in the ladies without their Camino passports. I phoned T and it was going to be close to the two hour mark. After I was finished on the phone the gentleman asked if I wanted check in, I thought about it and decided to go ahead as he suggested there was a good chance there would still be bunks available when they arrived. It was pretty inexpensive and I if they were full by the time the T’s arrived, we could then go off and find a place that could accommodate all three of us. As I was paying him he asked if I wanted to pay just for one or all three? Excuse me? It’s okay he says, say nothing, or something to that effect. The kind look I had seen in him earlier was more than skin deep. I was still pretty wet but boy did I feel better. T had organised the bunks for the previous two nights and I am sure she would have sorted out tonight as well without batting an eye but I just wanted to return the favour.
So once I had showered and enjoyed the fell of dry clothes again I set off in search of my two antipodean companions. Where did I meet them but pretty close to the Albergue that we were meant to stay in….which it turns out is…..1.5km from where we were going to stay. I am not going to say that my faith was in any way restored in my phone however it did get that distance right.
When we arrived into reception the, Francesco ( I am pretty sure that is his name ) asked me if I would show the ladies the bunks and where the facilities were as he had to start cooking. He quickly stamped their passports and then disappeared into the kitchen.
While the T’s were sorting out laundry ( thanks T ), showering and what not have you I made my way to the Bar / Restaurant. It’s basic but has everything it should have drink, food and more drink. It also provided live entertainment as it had a indoor community court that you could view through a Perspex shield. There was a couple of games played by kids of maybe around 10 or 11, they seemed to be really enjoying themselves, and why not it looked like totally disorganised chaos…...what kid does not love some of that.
Fortunately from the Bar counter you could see into the kitchen….Francesco had a helper there, after he had got me a local beer and he returned to cooking I noticed that his assistant did not seem to move unless directed.
On my second beer the ladies joined me so we grabbed a table, front row seats to a final where one team with so many different coloured shirts took on another team with an equal amount of different coloured shirts. I wonder how many of them knew who was actually on their team. But as I said it did not seem to matter. The food was good, nothing special but it all disappeared and none of us were hungry after it. Enough said. Just as we were finished I got a call that I was kinda expecting but dreading…..I went outside and it turns out Jennie had got a date for going into Galway hospital for treatment. We spoke for a bit and it was not for another 10 days so I said I would be back in 5. As I hung up the phone and made my way back in I decided two things: I was going to finish up tomorrow and make my way back in two days and was not going to tell the T’s until sometime tomorrow.
And there was me thinking I had just had half miserable day in the rain……..what sort of a day did Jennie have.
After dinner Trish went off to bed while T and myself retreated to a bar around the corner that I had passed while making my circles. We did this with some help from a couple of local ladies.
This was most definitely a night I would have missed curfew…..however thanks to the T we arrived back on time….actually ahead of time. We chatted for a bit outside while I checked that the contents of my hip flask had not gone off or evaporated, I think it was sometime when we were having a drink that T informed that the reason I had got confused about the location of the Albergue…...we were in the next village…..I had meant to stop in Estella but I had wandered onto Ayugi...I’d like to say I was surprised by this but it was not the first time I had wandered a bit too far along a path.
At 11 we entered the Albergue but Francesco said it’s okay if you want to chat another bit, what a gent, we did….another ten minutes and a couple of sips before the leaba was calling us.
Obviously it was not a good night but taking into account the good company I had and the kindness of Franceso it was not the bad night it could have been.